How Do I Fix a Leaky Outdoor Faucet?

An outdoor faucet (hose bib) that drips constantly wastes hundreds of gallons over a summer — and in cold climates, a leaking hose bib can freeze, burst the pipe inside the wall, and flood the house. The fix is usually a $2 washer and 20 minutes of work.

Quick diagnosis: where is it leaking from?

• Drips from the spout when turned off → worn seat washer inside. See Step 1.
• Leaks around the handle stem when turned on → worn packing nut. See Step 2.
• Leaks from the wall connection or vacuum breaker → connection issue. See Step 3.
• Faucet is a frost-free type and leaks inside the wall → the long stem’s washer failed — needs stem replacement. See Step 4.

What you will need

• Adjustable wrench (two — one to hold, one to turn)
• Screwdriver
• Replacement seat washers (assorted pack, $5)
• Packing string or replacement packing washer
• Plumber’s grease or petroleum jelly
• Teflon tape

Step 1: Replace the seat washer (spout drip)

1. Turn off the water to the faucet — there is usually a shutoff valve inside the house on that line. If there is not one, turn off the main.
2. Remove the handle: take out the handle screw and pull the handle off.
3. Unscrew the packing nut (the nut just behind the handle) with a wrench, holding the faucet body steady with the second wrench.
4. Pull out the stem. At the end of the stem you will see a small rubber washer held by a screw — the seat washer.
5. Replace the washer: remove the screw, swap in a new washer of the same size, and tighten the screw. A dab of plumber’s grease helps.
6. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn the water back on and test.

If the drip persists with a new washer, the brass seat inside the faucet body is pitted or cracked — a seat wrench ($10) lets you replace or reface it, or it is time for a new faucet.

Step 2: Fix a leaking handle (packing nut)

Water seeping around the handle stem when the faucet is on means the packing has worn.

1. With the water on (so you can test), tighten the packing nut a quarter-turn. Often that is all it takes.
2. If it still leaks, turn off the water, remove the handle and packing nut, and replace the packing: either wrap packing string around the stem 2–3 times or install a new packing washer.
3. Reassemble and test. The handle should turn smoothly with no seepage.

Step 3: Fix vacuum breaker and connection leaks

• Vacuum breaker (the small cap on top of modern hose bibs, required by code to prevent backflow): if it leaks or sprays when the water runs, the internal seal is worn. Unscrew it and replace it ($5–$10) — or replace the whole breaker cap.
• Wall connection: if water comes from where the faucet meets the wall, the pipe connection inside may be loose or the faucet body cracked from freezing. Tightening rarely fixes a cracked body — replacement is needed.

Step 4: Frost-free sillcock issues

Frost-free faucets have a long stem (8–14 inches) with the shutoff seat deep inside the warm wall. They fail differently:

1. Leak from the spout: the washer at the end of the long stem is worn. The stem unscrews as a unit — replace the washer at its tip.
2. The #1 killer: leaving a hose connected in winter. A connected hose traps water in the stem, which freezes and bursts the pipe inside the wall — even on a “frost-free” faucet. Always disconnect hoses before the first freeze.
3. If the pipe burst inside the wall, you will see water inside the house when the faucet is on — that is a plumber job involving opening the wall.

Winterizing (cold climates)

1. Disconnect all hoses before freezing weather — non-negotiable.
2. Shut off the interior valve and open the outside faucet to drain the line.
3. Leave the outside faucet open at 45° over winter so any residual water can expand without bursting the pipe.
4. Consider an insulated faucet cover ($5) for extra protection.

What this costs

Mistakes to avoid

• Leaving the hose connected in winter. The single most expensive mistake — it defeats the frost-free design and bursts pipes inside walls.
• Using one wrench. Always hold the faucet body with a second wrench — twisting the whole faucet can break the pipe connection inside the wall.
• Overtightening the packing nut. Snug stops the leak; cranking makes the handle impossible to turn and damages the packing.
• Ignoring a slow drip. “It is just outside” still wastes water and money — and in fall, it becomes a freeze risk.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my outdoor faucet leak even when I just replaced the washer? The brass seat the washer presses against is likely pitted or cracked. Replace or reface the seat with a seat wrench, or replace the faucet.

Should I replace my old hose bib with a frost-free model? In any climate with freezing winters, yes — if you are replacing the faucet anyway. The long-stem design moves the shutoff inside the warm wall. But remember: it only works if hoses are disconnected.

Can I leave a hose connected if I have a frost-free faucet? No. This is the most common misunderstanding. A connected hose traps water in the stem where it can freeze and burst — frost-free or not.

My faucet has low pressure — is it related to the leak? Possibly — a partially failed washer can restrict flow. But low pressure at one outdoor faucet is more often a partially closed interior shutoff valve or a kinked supply line.

When to call a pro

• Water appears inside the house when the outdoor faucet runs — burst pipe inside the wall; open the wall and repair ($500–$2,000+).
• The faucet body is cracked or the pipe connection inside the wall is damaged.
• There is no interior shutoff valve and you need one installed — a plumber adds it in under an hour.
• The leak is at the main line or you need to solder copper pipe and are not equipped for it.